ADAM HAYDOCK

Heading down the desolate basins of Nevada was quite beautiful as we headed to Uhalde Pit. We set up a time to meet up with Doug Powell with the forest service so we could both check out this pit and get a chance to meet up.

We got to the drop and I thought the entrance of the pit was interesting, actually I thought the pit was interesting as it corkscrewed around box work and mammillary formations. The map explained that the pit was around 113ft in depth but the map appeared to be a bit off so Laura is going to create a new map for this cave.  Unfortunately, my camera batteries were not included in my camera pack but thankfully Dan and Laura were snapping photos throughout our bounce in this pit.

We are grateful that we had the opportunity to meet up with Doug to not only go caving together but to continue to work together with the Forest Service and continue to help preserve our beautiful cave systems of Nevada. It is really important to me to be able to contribute to a excellent cause and to help those who protect the beautiful land around us. We are looking forward to the opportunities where we can continue and contribute to the park service as well as go caving with some great people. We also want to continue to encourage people who are interested in caving to reach out to us directly or reach out to your local grotto so you can learn more about these fascinating cave systems.

To learn more about safe caving activities, caving in Nevada, or to learn how you can get involved and visit caves like these, please reach out to your local caving grotto, The Southern Nevada Grotto.  If you have any questions or you need help with reaching out to the right caving organization, please reach out to me directly.

All Photos are by Chris Higgins.  Please go to
 https://www.facebook.com/chrishigginsphotography/?hc_ref=NEWSFEED
to learn more about Chris Higgins.  Also follow Chris at  @chrishigginsphoto 

Nita N'JOU and Nita Nindo are two caves that connect into a massive room called the TAG shaft just above the La Grieta section of Sistema Huautla. It has been 35 years since a team has been in this system and among this team, they were the original explorers of this cave. It is always interesting to be the first to go in but being the second team to go into a massive system like this one was a great experience especially when we found a fault within the wall that takes water from two sides of the bottom and that also sucks air into its unknown depths.  We plotted the original data and found that this system is only 600ft. above the L room survey in Camp 2 of the La Grieta section in Sistema Huautla. Chris Higgins wanted to photo the TAG shaft and a ridge walk was set up for the hillside where the entrance to Nita N'JOU  might be located because the entrances to Nita N'JOU and Nita Nido were lost.

After being in La Grieta for 4 days we wanted to pursue another direction into the system and decided to go for the Nita N'JOU entrance leading to the TAG shaft with the hope that we would find going leads. We packed our equipment and set out into the forest to find cave entrances and to find the Nita N'JOU  entrance.   The Nita N'JOU  entrance would have less horizontal passage and be a shorter route to the TAG shaft. We got landowner access to walk through the forest which can be quite difficult to do even with permits from the city of Huautla.  Access to private lands can change fast.  Access to Nita He and the Rio Iglesia were previous granted earlier this year but soon retracted when the expedition started. Thankfully, access to these caves was allowed and with our team of people we hiked through the thorn bushes and steep muddy sinkholes where we located 6 cave entrances. I was able to find one entrance that looked the most promising with a stream going into a slopping passage that went to a series of 20 to 30ft drops.

Aerial view of Plan Carlota. Huautla De Jimenez, Mexico Photo By: Chris Higgins @chrishigginsphoto

We rigged 4 of these drops until we ran out of rope.  The cave appeared to open up a bit and to the point where we could feel a slight sucking breeze.  The multi drop also looked like it would be able to take in a lot of water so either this is a new system or this is one of the entrances to the TAG shaft. The other entrance was encountered and also had a series of multi drops.  It was the favorable opinion that these are the two in feeders that will go into the TAG shaft.   

Aerial view of Plan Carlota. Huautla De Jimenez, Mexico Photo By: Chris Higgins @chrishigginsphoto

We decided to pursue the entrance closer to a farmers house which also had more drops in quick succession. This appeared to be a great option and might very well lead to the TAG shaft.  After rigging 7 drops, rope was depleted and all of the bolts in the pack were hammered into the rock so a plan to visit the cave the following day was formulated to include a drag bag full of bolts, hangers, and 700ft of rope for the assumed introduction into the TAG shaft. When morning broke, we eagerly set out to the top but along the way, one of the rental cars got stuck in the mud where the Mazatec were working on the road. After about an hour of hauling the car out of the rut, we were on our way to the top and finally entered the cave.  In between the drops we encountered a lot of loose rock and mud stones which would break off with the right amount of pressure. There were a couple more drops that we rigged before the we came to a canyon that opened up into a massive room.  Big enough to echo voices for up to 5 seconds. 

Rich and Elliot look with at the pothole as vico assists with the haul. PHOTO BY; Chris Higgins @chrishigginsphoto

Dragging the packs through the popcorn slot passages made the travel slow going and awkward. Some of the drops were through small holes that opened up into pits as well as tight passages leading to the pits which made for more of a awkward traverse.  Before reaching the TAG shaft we had to go through a mouse trap of a rock formation that looked like it was ready to go with a little influence so we carefully crept through the middle without knocking rocks around us.  

Lee White Scrapping through the popcorn slots of Nita N'JOU , Huautla, Mexico.  PHOTO BY: Chris Higgins @chrishigginsphoto

Traveling down a short horizontal breakdown passage took us to down climbable pour off and the entrance of a small canyon that took us to the massive tag shaft. Even with the limited view point that we had at the top of the drop, this room was as impressive as we had anticipated it to be.  More bolts were placed in the questionable rock and in most places, two bolt, stations were rigged to ensure that we had solid anchor placement so we would not blow the rock out and subsequently skipping a few beats of the heart while being in a pendulum and going across a barrage of loose rock and sharp fins.

Knowing how this trip was going, we ended up running out of bolts again!   As of now, we went through over 40 bolts and over a 1000ft of rope. We thought that this shaft was only 430ft. but we figured it was deeper than that so we included a distox and a book to take notes on the following days return.

Day 4 was similar in the factor of eagerness and urgency but we headed out earlier in the morning to make sure that we got to the bottom of the drop.  Same passage suit grabbing popcorn and crawling restrictions got us to the shaft and down to the station that we left off at yesterday. Continuing down, Lee took up arms at rigging the rest of the passage.  Lee rigged a Y hang and a J belay that took us out of the waterfall but consequently, we ran out of rope!!! again!!! Geez. this cave is relentless!!!  Chris and I headed up to grab some access rope and along the way, a handhold broke that sent me 6 feet down a drop onto my arm.  With my arm throbbing and being sick from throwing up, otherwise called the Aztec two step, I continued on and we got some access rope for the final tier to the bottom. The rope that we cut was not enough to get us to the bottom. 

Adam Haydock getting through a slot canyon in Nita N'JOU. Huautla de Jimenez, Mexico. Photo by: Chris Higgins @chrishigginsphoto

 So we had to come back a fifth day to get to the bottom of the cave. Day 5 and we took over 200ft of rope even through we were certain that the drop was only 30-50 ft. to the bottom.  We grabbed more bolts and headed back into this cave once gain.  Finally, Lee was able to get on the walkie and say that he was off rope!  Chris was on a standing ledge so he continued down to the bottom while the rest of us headed down.  We used a hardware store of over 1000ft. of rope and 50 bolts in this cave.  Included in this set up was a couple of standing rebelays that went down to a free hanging rebelay of 165ft. to a ledge.  This was followed by 3 more rebelays on some marbled limestone rock and another free hanging rebelay that went directly into a raining waterfall of a 135ft. Lee set up a J belay that was hung under rock but it took us out of the waterfall. The J was a bit awkward but it worked well to get out of the water. This was an 80ft drop down to the pristine mud bottom. 

 Once we had all of our boots on the ground, it was a relief and a success that was short lived by the time restriction that we had.  Chris Set up some photos of people going up the rope from the bottom looking up.  We had Jason going up the rope and Lee at the ledge.  I stood on the ground and Rich held a flash bulb.  When Chris was ready, he yelled " fire" and both of the flash bulbs went off creating a beautiful shot of the bottom looking up at over half of the massive room. Chris set up a few more photos and I scrambled over some breakdown and noticed a mud like room with two holes in the ground where the water appeared to go down.  This room looked more like a overflow room as there was a waterline on the wall.  On the other side of the pit there was reported to be a crack in the ground where the water went through.  well this crack was actually a fault! 

Photo from the top looking down of Adam Haydock Climbing out of the waterfall section in the TAG shaft. Nita N'JOU . Huautla de Jimenez, Mexico. Photo by: Chris Higgins @chrishigginsphoto

 We took strike and dip measurements of the trend and continued to peer deeper into this fault.  The passage was around 6-8 inches in width that was covered in a lot of popcorn. most of the water that was falling from the top of the cave entered through here along with the air.  The air was being sucked into this passage as a rate where we could see dangling garbage moving with the breeze!!  This passage has to go!  I could see the passage open up a bit and bend to the left.  This is it!  I am almost positive that this is going to be the way to the L room or a similar place in La Grieta.  A fault is better than a crack, water flows through, and air is being sucked in.  This pit also sits 600ft. above La Grieta.  

Lee White coming up to the ledge section of the TAG shaft Nita N'JOU. Huautla de Jimenez, Mexico. Photo by: Chris Higgins @chrishigginsphoto

Rich and Jason made it up to the ledge and they continued to head out of the cave.   Now, usually we could all set our ascent up the rope since we have all of these re-belays in place but with the threat of rock fall and the condition that the rock was in, we had to go one at a time and make our way up to the top which was a lot slower than we expected.   passing through the waterfall and climbing to the ledge took some time in itself as the cool water slowed our body from heating up but once we got to the top. I started to chill a bit.  We snapped a few more photos from the top looking down and than headed out of the cave.  Thankfully we did not have to stage de-rig anything but we still had a bit more to go including the 165ft. free hanging climb on 9 mm rope in an abyss of darkness and massive stalactites hanging from the top, creepy..yes...exhilarating?...absolutely. I felt like I was climbing fantastic pit for the first time again.  Once I got to the top, I was relieved that it was done and almost felt like I was out of the cave even though I had another nine climbs to get out.  We all got out of the pit and took some photos on our way out of the cave. 

Adam Haydock Climbing out of one of the 9 multi drops in Nita N'JOU cave, Huautla de Jimenez, Mexico. @chrishigginsphoto

It is not everyday you can find a cave with 9 drops and a rewarding end of a 495ft multi drop room that rivals surprise and incredible pit with going leads at the bottom!  The cave took 5 days to find, rig, and descend down to the bottom safely and successfully. We found that the pit itself was 495ft. instead of 430ft.and was one hell of a room!  As of this article, We are in hopes that the last two weeks of the expedition will have another team of cavers push through the fault and continue down the passage. If not, we got a primary objective for next year.

Adam Haydock climbing to the top of the Y hang in Nita N'JOU. Huautla de Jimenez, Mexico. Photo by: Chris Higgins @chrishigginsphoto

I lay my head to rest and close my eyes after a day of hauling packs down 350 meters of rebelays, y-hangs, and famous the traverse lines in the tight corridors of the "torture chamber". After eating a pile of potato mix at camp 1.5, my eyes became heavy as my body fixated into a horizontal placement set back on a shelved mud packed corner. The darkness is thick as the air is to breathe. I open my eyes and close them just to feel my eye lids move in succession without the dark visual silhouettes in the background that I have been accustomed to on the surface world.

The mountainous terrain of Plan Carlota can take at least a day and a half of  planes, buses, and taxis until you finally reach the destination.  The long and winding roads can sicken the most centered of stomachs and the moisture of cloud cover on the road, chills the skin as visibility is minimized to just a few feet. Along the way, we must have passed at least 3 or 4 rock slides on the road that would have made permanent residents out of the most unlucky of travelers.  Thankfully, all of these obstacles were easy to get around but as luck would have it, our destination to Huautla is not without the sobering reality that we are 6000ft. above sea level on steep terrain and a third of this elevation can be lost just by one wrong turn off the side of the road.

Basecamp Living Quarters, Proyecto Espeleologico Sistema Huautla, Mexico

Finally, we come to the open gate of Huautla De Jimenez and the small but obvious bus station packed with people on the street.  Cars drive by as they barely creep around each other with inches of real estate to spare.  I was able to waive down a cab that knew how to get to Plan Carlota which was another 15-20 minute drive from Huautla. After jumping into the cab, we headed up the hill and into the town of San Andres, soon after leaving the town for a rocky dirt road.  This winding road went past some familiar sinkholes and the outline of La Grieta began to fade into site through the clouds.  I knew I was close when I saw the school yard boundaries and the concrete building appear through the clouds.  I pulled up to the building and Vico was cooking Oaxacan quesadillas as Lee was in the dinner room having lunch. I found my way around the quarters and found a building to setup my sleeping bag which is where I found Josh Hydeman preparing for the week.  They were already in the cave and have come back out.  Lee, Josh, and I got together and talked about what we were going to do for the week and we decided that we would go into La Grieta to find Mike Green's team and photo from 1.5 to the Doo Dah dome. Our itinerary would include camping in the cave for the entire week so we could maximize the amount of time we had. We prepared camping supplies and a large jar of food.  

While we were preparing for our trip, We got an update from the Huautla resurgence team that they were able to get to Sump 3 but they were stopped by a breakdown pile which appeared to be impassible for the group. They camped in the cave for a few days at a time and searched for leads to bypass sump 3.  

To learn more about the Huautla Resurgence Project please visit this website.

https://www.beyondthesump.org/

Lee, Josh, and I woke up early so we could get a head start into the cave and start with an early day that would get us to camp 1.5 with all of our equipment. We worked our way down almost 50 small rebelays and a tiered series of rebelays through two faults, one of which is called the 200 which is a large fault with a series of rebelays.

Once we got to the bottom of the 200, we fix up some lunch before heading through the horizontal torture chamber.  I made sure that we all took our time so that everyone was comfortable with going through the cave and that we could get to camp 1.5 without too much trouble.  It was not that difficult or that far but this day was dedicated to arrive at camp 1.5. Our objective for the following day was to find Mike's team, so we had plenty of time.  We grinding through the various cracks and the sound of our cave suits scrapping through the confines made travel slow going but eventually the small ascents in the canyon led us to the junction where 1.5 was just around the corner.  At the time when we were at camp 1.5 the current information was that Mike's team was just starting to breach around the sump so we felt that we were not too far behind them.

Camp 1.5 was already furnished with a buffet of jars with mixed food from this years expedition, along with pails of food and questionable power bars from the previous years. There was also the famed "stone special" packed in the corner and the mountain house breakfast mix that Lee deemed to be "plumbing service".   Fuel canisters lay astray and crumbly space blankets flatten the grounds where we lay to rest while wet suits and damp clothing dangle above us with the hope of drier fabrics in our future.  We fix up a mix of potatoes, ramen, seeds, potatoes, chicken flavor, potatoes, and more potatoes, Dam, there is a lot of dried potatoes in this mix!We fired up the stove and boiled water from a near by pool where we would drink from. The meal was it was actually quite tasty and satisfying.

Soon after the meal and a few tales from general Lee Bruster's archive, we all started to daze off into our corners as our lights went off. It was hard to tell if I was sleeping if I was awake with the silence ringing in my ears and the unseen evidence of visual objects around me when my eyes opened. It was a lot better than the orchestra of sound at basecamp from people coming through the doors at night to dogs adn chickens chasing each other...mass hysteria!!!  This was rather peaceful and my preferred choice for my light sleeper mentality.    I concentrated on relaxing and fell deeper into a state of sleep but 8:00AM came too quick, and the alarm on my watch erupted as if I skipped over 8 hours of time. We took our time to get up and by 10AM, we slithered back into our mud soaked, cold, and wet cave kits to continue down the passage to refresher falls forwarding to camp 2.0. As we crossed back into the junction room, the stench from the latrine could make a billy goat puke but thankfully we were high enough where we would not be able to smell its nasal disturbance, except for Josh.

We found our way down into refresher falls and continued to head downstream into a canyon passage full of clear blue water. there were some traverse lines in place but it was easier to just jump in the water and swim through.  The passage was quite beautiful and it took us to a series of marbled limestone slot canyon drops that had swirling strata and fluted passage. It was beautiful to see and I believe that this is some of the best passage in the cave. 

After this section we came into a large room that soon connected to another passage with water, a few raps, and a guided rappel. Once we got through the canyon passage, we made an ascent to another large canyon room where we were greeted by Chris Cowles and Nikki Fox. They were on their way out of the cave.  I was tuned into their discussion on how Mike's team got beyond the sump and started their pursuit towards the doodah dome.   Excited as I was, we continued down the canyon passage and headed towards the Mazatac Shores where camp 2 is located and where Damien, Elliot, Mike, and Brian were based from. I was excited to see them as I could hear voices beyond the rock.  I climbed down to where a line of sleeping pads were placed in a orderly fashion and a trickling stream of water kept going deeper into the cave. 

 Mike and Brian were donning their cloths but not to continue to pursue the Doodah, they were all getting ready to leave the cave. I sat down with Mike as he explained to me how they got around the sump and they made it to the K borehole.  They said it is about 6 hours both ways to the borehole but the morale of the team is down and they made the decision that they should leave the cave to increase morale so they could return with more resources and a song in their breath that will take them to the Doodah dome.

Understanding of the situation,  I was a bit stuck in my decision because I did not want to leave and come back into the cave. Lee, Josh, and I decided to take photos from camp 2 back up to camp 1.5 instead of waiting for them to come back.  We did not know when they would be coming back into the cave and my primary objective was to join Mike and go to the Doo-dah dome. I did not want to leave the cave and come back into the cave, than traverse all the way to the Doo-dah dome so our options started to diminish but we had a good objective to gather photos of camp 2 back up to camp 1.5.  After this 12 hour day we made it back to camp to enjoy another heaping pile of potatoes and potatoes and discuss our next steps.

The following day we had plenty of energy to continue but our options have diminished quite a bit.  Doo-dah was postponed, camp 2 to camp 1.5 was photo documented, and camp 3 along with the passages leading to camp 3 were voted on to be not of the interest within the group so we had no other option but to exit the cave.  We started on our way out by dragging out all of our equipment except for Lee's aid climbing kit.  Our packs must have weighed over 30 lbs. per pack, its not a lot of weight but it made the day another slow going day.  The group decided to stash some of the equipment at the top of the 200 which made the final ascent of 800ft. a bit easier.  We decided that we wanted to come back and photo the 200 anyway so this made sense to stash some camera equipment here.

We finally crawled out of the cave three days later into the night and made it back for a late night dinner where we were greeted by a lot more people than when we went into the cave.  While I was ascending out, I was thinking that I wanted to look at the overlay where the other caves were located in the area to see if there might be some passages or possible connections that have been overlooked. Nita N'Tau was brought up in conversation with Chris Higgins. The cave is located higher up on the ridge and is known to have multiple drops with a rewarding massive room called the TAG shaft.  There was a description that stated that there was a crack where the water went down with no other language describing the bottom. This became a very interesting point to look into as there is a massive shaft with water draining into a unknown piece of the cave. We went to Tommy to pull up the line plot and according to the records from 35 years ago, the bottom of the cave lines up 600ft above the L room in camp 2, Jackpot!!

The following day we set out for the ridge and started finding entrances that could have the potential to be Nita N'Tau or Nita Nido.  We first noticed multiple entrances in the forest which had passage at the bottom.  This took a half day to do so we came back later in the day to push some of the more promising leads.  This led to some very favorable results.  please click here to learn more about our discovery.

After a day of ridge walking to find the Nita Nido and Nita N'Tau entrances, Josh, Rich, and I went into La Grieta to get our camera equipment and head down to the 200 to photo a few free hanging shots.  I had the idea of how I wanted the shot to turn out and which would be rich down the 4th re belay, Josh down the 3rd re belay and I would be hanging on the rope past the second re belay.  When we were all set up, I pulled my camera out and that is when the moisture started to set inside the camera.  I could see the shots becoming hazy from internal moisture inside the lens and inside the monitor so I aborted the shoot and put the camera away. I was a bit concerned that the camera might be ruined so I kept it wrapped up in the box with the anticipation of burying the camera in rice. Afterwards, we got to the top of the first tier and Josh started taking photos on the way out. We started to hear some noises and it was Galen and Jerry coming out from camp 3. They were surprised to see us just as we were ecstatic to see them.  Josh ended up interviewing them and they described how they hauled packs for almost a week before starting their survey and lead climb.  They did not seem to happy about the experience and decided to leave early. It was interesting to hear how they were not in the mindset to "prove" anything to anyone by staying in the cave for 2 week.  They did stay in for 11 days and their morale was down. Soon after we talked with them, they left the cave and we continued up to the surface while we snapped a few photos along the way.

For me, this reinforced the notion that cave camping does not make someone a better caver but more of a resourceful caver. In my perception, the idea that someone can have the understanding to dive, dome climb, photograph, affect a rescue, survey, be physically fit, model good vertical competency, and have a understanding of karst morphology will not necessary make them a better caver.  No doubt, these stated workings can develop a well rounded, employable, and an educated project caver, but the very design of project caving is built around a team effort.
For what it is worth, the label of an elite caver is up for interruption, especially when it is valued as a means of self entitlement and self proclaimed validation. Now, it is not my position to judge and quite frankly, if someone desires that status than it shall be a goal to accomplish. The problem comes in when this status is used for comparison to the purpose of another.
  I have found that the path of greatness is not about how many certifications or trips someone can collect along the way, but the ability to contribute to a resolve while providing a environment of safety and certainty that inspires individual achievement and personal fulfillment
so if I may, that very notion, in contradiction to what I have wrote about, might actually be the definition of an elite caver.

I want to thank Bill Steele, Tommy Shifflet, and Jim Smith for inviting me back to the PESH expedition and for allowing me to contribute to the projects resolve. I am looking forward to coming back next year to photo and climb in the K borehole and camp 4 region.  I am also looking forward to pursing the bottom of Nita NTau to connect the two caves together.  I want to thank Dive Right In Scuba, On-Rope 1, PMI, and Dewalt, for the generous discounts and donations for our equipment requirements that we used to rig and protect us inside the cave. We could not have been as successful as we were without your contributions.  Thank you very much!  I also want to thank Richard Zaria, Lee White, Josh Hydeman, Mike Green, Brian Gindling, Chris Higgins, and Jason Lavender for assisting, hauling, and modeling in these photos that I took.  It is a lot of effort to work for an objective through a photographers agenda and that takes a lot of patience and sincerity.  I appreciate your patience and hard work with helping to make these photos turn out fantastic.

Excellent Video on the History of Sistema Huautla: https://vimeo.com/11628019

5/10/2017 A note from Expedition leader Bill Steele:

Sistema Huautla comprises 20 entrances and 78,300 m of passage to a depth of 1,560 m. This most complex vertical cave system has more independent deep routes than any other cave in the world: three routes over 1,000 m deep, one over 900 m, two over 800 m, one over 700 m and three over 600 m.
The connection of Nita Nanta in 1987 marked the first and, still one of very few times two caves each over 1,000 m deep have been joined together. The world's deepest down-and-up traverse, a spectacular crossover trip, can be made: 1,225 m down via Nita Nanta's highest entrance, through the spectacular stream galleries of lower Sótano de San Agustín, and 1,107 m back up Li Nita, all without retracing a single footstep. This down-and-up traverse would be 11 km in traverse length, although the two entrances are less than a kilometer apart on the surface. Such a trip is likely never to be done due to the logistics of rigging well over 100 pitches and diving two widely separated sumps at the bottom, though they both are only about 10 m
long.
At present Sistema Huautla is 78.3 kilometers (49.6 miles) in length, 1,560 meters in depth (5,117 feet), is the deepest known cave in the Western Hemisphere, eighth deepest cave in the world, and the longest of the 17 deepest caves in the world.