THE EXPLORATION AND SURVEY OF THE NACIMIENTO DEL RIO URUAPAN. OAXACA, MEXICO
Adam Haydock
April 29, 2019
The idea of cave exploration has been on the fingertips for the curious reader, inspiring a bit of question bearing eye candy and a bit of internal projection that seeks to understand the world under our own surface meaning that we have become comfortable with.
This recent advent of public assumed discovery into the world of caving has brought out emotions ranging from uncovering a semi secretive society of underworld explores to imitating action for some that have found a connected familiarity to the idea of cave exploration, even a bit of anxiety for the outliers wandering eye.
The idea of cave exploration, for me, is a lifestyle of seeking to understand and the seemingly endless pursuit to understand our history.
The geological, hydro logical, and anthropological history of human being and our underground has been a obvious forefront to answering questions that appetize our curiosity.
Now I say appitize, because not all questions are obvious or answered, and in fact more questions arise after new discoveries are uncovered.
Could this create a infinitive crazy eight loop of endless pursuit and entrap the curiously adventurous?
I think it could but the observance of this audit can keep our pursuits realistic and keep us pursuing a reasonable obtainable goal, S.M.A.R.T. goal.
This is where the organized expeditions and clear measurable objectives can also be the answering balance towards this endless pursuit for the chase in new discoveries and efficient and realistic exploration that generates quality results.
This is where the organized expeditions and clear measurable objectives can also be the answering balance towards this endless pursuit for the chase in new discoveries and efficient and realistic exploration that generates quality results.
Some can say some of us chase the feeling of a new discovery, like chasing a feeling or a drug for that matter.
I say its prudent to observe these emotions to stay present to the moment while allowing the feeling of discovery to be a mechanism for our objective instead of our self indulgence.
I say its prudent to observe these emotions to stay present to the moment while allowing the feeling of discovery to be a mechanism for our objective instead of our self indulgence.
Now that we are all present to the moment and observing our mechanisms we call emotions, lets explore deeper into what we find purposeful and fulfilling within the world of cave exploration.
There is generations of exploration to occur in many regions of the world and we cant get it all done in a lifetime, its just not going to happen.
There is generations of exploration to occur in many regions of the world and we cant get it all done in a lifetime, its just not going to happen.
When birds find their own feather efficiency and effectiveness can occur that brings tall order results into a more obtainable resolve.
That being said, expedition groups with similar standards of quality and mindset can find synergy and effective teamwork and create an overall sense of greatness among themselves and the environment around them.
That being said, expedition groups with similar standards of quality and mindset can find synergy and effective teamwork and create an overall sense of greatness among themselves and the environment around them.
one aspect of cave exploration is to access the very places that dauntingly appear to be inaccessible.
The employment of technical rope access equipment and proficient technique not only becomes a requirement but become a risk management matrix for assessing risk thresholds and the rick appetite of the group.
The employment of technical rope access equipment and proficient technique not only becomes a requirement but become a risk management matrix for assessing risk thresholds and the rick appetite of the group.
Now lets throw in idea of remote and isolated living quarters ( cave camping) where essential resources are required for hygiene and health.
This continues to add a level of planning and understanding that most may not realize until they are waking up from previous days 12 hr trip down 500 meters of rope and the environmental condition is visually, audibly, and sensationally, exactly the same as you went to bed with.
Sensory deprivation eventually occurs and increased risk can be statistically plotted for the UN prepared.
This continues to add a level of planning and understanding that most may not realize until they are waking up from previous days 12 hr trip down 500 meters of rope and the environmental condition is visually, audibly, and sensationally, exactly the same as you went to bed with.
Sensory deprivation eventually occurs and increased risk can be statistically plotted for the UN prepared.
Now lets throw in scuba diving.
A lot of us know and understand the pleasures of diving and also have learned about the dangers of diving, and for the same paradigm of reasoning in the world of cave diving.
A lot of us know and understand the pleasures of diving and also have learned about the dangers of diving, and for the same paradigm of reasoning in the world of cave diving.
Incorporate all of these elements and it can be a dangerous caustic cocktail of destruction but in the right hands with the right preparation, this tools can propel exploration into places that most my not have fathoms to exist.
Initial
reports of what lies beyond the sump was a passage that led to a large
room in the middle of a large body of water and a waterfall that would
need to be aid climbed.
Reports became unclear as the waterfall went
from 15 meters to over 25-30 meters in height. There were no other
reports of what was beyond the waterfall.
The
uluapan divided two conflicting pueblos “townships” that continued to
declare and dispute, at times with physical altercations, over the
ownership of the rio uluapan.
This not created a restrictive and
ultimately a forbidden option to dive the rio uluapan for over 30 years.
The comuneros “Conrad’s” of ayualta and the jalappan governing body
continued their assertion and declaration of the rio uruapan and who had
ultimate ownership of the cave.
Among the other disagreements between
the parties, physical altercations, and violent attacks among the two
publeos continued to occur which gave one of many uncontrollable reasons
to halt cave exploration within the region.
Two cave explorers, Tony
Akers and Mike Frazier, gave us guidance as to our approach with the
local communities and played a tremendous help with obtaining access to
the rio uluapan.
There were years where the political temperature of the
region was at a threshold that waiting for a regime change was the only
option.
When we were Informed that the option to explore the rio
uluapan was a possibility we set our expedition purpose to ensure that
we can successfully perform a dive expedition within a safety threshold
and with resources that would support such a dive.
Meetings
were missed and the times when we did show up to the comuneros
headquarters, they were not available.
Regardless, this put the team in a
“less than ideal “ position for community support, respect, and
approach that we are here to help protect and preserve the cave instead
of taking and “conquering” the region as the reputation existed
until this year.
Once
we transfilled tanks, packed sorb, and prepared for the dive in the
water, we submerged and started our pursuit for Victoria falls.
I held
on to zebs crotch strap and the Valkyrie scooter that Zeb piloted
dragged us through the large submerged passage. In order to reduce drag,
I kept close and a profile that minimized drag as I looked down and
right at the rock and the sandy, silty, rocky bottom.
It was clear to me
that once we maintained a depth of 45 ft on our traverse through the
submerged passage, this cave collected a massive amount of water.
This
became ever more present when sump2 was pushed.
There was one point where I had to let go and swim into a pit with a max depth of 71 ft and ascend back up to Zeb and the final scooter ride to the in cave body of water.
There was one point where I had to let go and swim into a pit with a max depth of 71 ft and ascend back up to Zeb and the final scooter ride to the in cave body of water.
We proceeded to descend back down to a depth of 70ft and was
greeted with a line going up to surface of the subterranean body of
water and the dry passage in between sumps where Victoria falls was
located.
Our total run time was right around 15 minutes from the resurgence to Victoria falls.
Our total run time was right around 15 minutes from the resurgence to Victoria falls.
Once I surfaced, I could see the lights of
Jon and Gilly moving around along with the obvious roar of Victoria
falls.
After hearing and reading about this waterfall, I suspected it to
be a lot bigger and a lot more present.
Instead it was around 20-30ft in height and the actual falling water was set back a bit in a flute which made photography a bit limited with the environment I was working in.
Instead it was around 20-30ft in height and the actual falling water was set back a bit in a flute which made photography a bit limited with the environment I was working in.
We
attached our dive gear to a rope ledge on surface and swam over to the
traverse lines set in place for a easy traverse over to another ledge on
top of the falls.
There were tyrolean traverse lines and trolly lines
set up to help minimize exertion in carrying dive gear to sump 2.
These traverse lines went from the shoreline to the shelf to the right of the falls.
Another trolly line went from this shelf to a top shelf which is the upper passage where water appears to flow in high water.
This hydrology ate itself a very sharp and brittle passage.
The trolly continued horizontal to a anchor point and concluded at another rig point at sump 2.
Beyond the waterfall was a walking passage where we had to swim in some sections to a small waterfall and climb a placed webbing ladder to a breakdown pile and nearby sump 2.
These traverse lines went from the shoreline to the shelf to the right of the falls.
Another trolly line went from this shelf to a top shelf which is the upper passage where water appears to flow in high water.
This hydrology ate itself a very sharp and brittle passage.
The trolly continued horizontal to a anchor point and concluded at another rig point at sump 2.
Beyond the waterfall was a walking passage where we had to swim in some sections to a small waterfall and climb a placed webbing ladder to a breakdown pile and nearby sump 2.
Sump
2 was a rather large pool of water that was around 20ft by 30ft.
At this point in the cave, push divers equipped with blended gas mixes, heated undergarments under their drysuits, dive line, survey gear, and additional tanks would pursue the seemingly endless large submerged extension of the rio uluapan.
At this point in the cave, push divers equipped with blended gas mixes, heated undergarments under their drysuits, dive line, survey gear, and additional tanks would pursue the seemingly endless large submerged extension of the rio uluapan.
Zeb
and teddy prepared for the long and extended dive into sump 2.
They were anticipated to be in the water for a total of four hours with a lot of decompression time in the water.
They were anticipated to be in the water for a total of four hours with a lot of decompression time in the water.
Once they got into the water and continued on into their dive, we headed back to get some photos of the dry portion of the cave.
We set up some shots on the traverse lines and set up a few shots above the falls as well as at sump two.
Before we knew it, the divers were coming back and at their 20-10ft decompression stops.
We could see the divers laying down on their decompression stops while they read waterproof novels and slowly allow the off gassing of nitrogen out of their system.
After their last 45 minute deceompression stop, they surfaced and reported that they laid another 900 ft of line and the cave continues deeper.
There were sections of the cave where it ascended to a shallower depth and descended back down which creates a more complicated decompression procedure, rather a more lengthy dive.
After a 2 hour surface interval, we connected their gear to a trolley line and passed the gear along to the top of sump the falls and eventually descending all the gear back down to the water front.
Even though this took some time to complete, moving the gear over to sump 1 with a trolley system was a lot easier than hauling all the gear to sump 1.
Eventually we made it back to sump 1 and prepared for our dive back through the sump and out the entrance resurgence.
I was in a 5mm wet suit farmer john with the 3mm wetsuit top tucked inside the farmer john and I was starting to get a bit chilled. Now being in Vegas for a few years has made me a bit soft with the cold but I think this wet suit configuration worked out. I also had 5mm boots and 3 mm hood.
I held on to zebs crotch strap and after replacing the broken line, we headed back out through sump 1. This time around I looked up to have a look at the massive submerged passage and realized how big this passage was.
After 15 minutes we popped out into the entrance and you could smell the organics in the air with the moonlight shining through the hanging gardens at the entrance and illuminating the cerro rabon in the background.
The days continuing the team kept pushing deeper into the Rio Uluapan with continuing success until they reached a point where their re breathers and gas mixtures would not support a deeper dive so they aborted the dive.
I want to thank everyone on the team that helped to support and develop this expedition into the success that we found with it. I also want to thank Tony Akers and Mike Frazier for there dedication and assistance with securing permission for the dive. I also want to thank Fernando Hernandez for assisting us in the political field for our successful agreement with the Communeros, and the city of Aluatla, and Japapa.
We are looking forward to another successful expedition next year in the Cerro Rabon.
Video of scooter diving through sump 1
https://vimeo.com/332757966?ref=fb-share&1&fbclid=IwAR2BhY3atfC9eCgW-2MGiWx8YKf1ZFY_DPFLos8Kvm2Zxhdv28x40yE0f20